The Famous Salmon Strata

We think this strata came from Bon Appetit years ago. Unfortunately, it is not listed on Epicurious.com. In fact, we were unable to find anything close to it anywhere on the web.

Light and magnificently flavorful, this strata is one of our favorite dishes for brunch. Quick and easy to prepare, it feeds 6 comfortably. We paired it here with Neuske's smoked bacon, hash browns, and fresh kiwi and raspberries.


Salmon Strata

2 cups broccoli
10 green onions
1 package smoked salmon
1 8 oz. package low fat cream cheese
8 eggs
2 cups milk
1 cup bisquick

Cook at 375 30-35 minutes

Favorite Tools

We often enjoy using hand tools in the kitchen. They are enjoyable because they are quieter, more tactile, and easier to clean than their electric counterparts. Two favorites are our Thai mortar and pestle and our Japanese suribachi. Together, these tools can handily accomplish many small jobs that a noisy, messy blender or food processor might otherwise be used for.

The mortar and pestle is a heavy, durable object made from a solid piece of granite. We mostly use it for crushing, pounding and pulverizing. It's especially useful for grinding small amounts of coarse salt or dry spices, or pounding nuts into small pieces or powder. For example, few chili or marinade recipes are complete without at least a teaspoon of skillet-toasted, fresh ground cumin. We've even fresh ground espresso beans with it. This size (the bowl is five inches across and has a two-cup capacity) can often be found for sale at fancy gourmet stores for $40 or more. This one was purchased at our local asian market for $15.

The suribachi is a ceramic vessel with a grooved bowl and a glazed exterior. The pestle (surikogi) is made of wood, so that it doesn't wear down the grooves. It is useful for grinding small amounts of soft or wet ingredients into pastes, dressings and sauces. We mostly use it for fresh herbs, garlic, and ginger.

White Bean Soup with Ham and Greens

We had a great time inventing uses for our tasty Christmas leftovers. Although the cauliflower gratin didn't make it very long (yes, it can be eaten for breakfast), many of the other Christmas dishes lasted us for days or even weeks.

For snacking, we had nearly a dozen quality cheeses to choose from. The mousse and pate made cracker spreads, and the red cabbage was good reheated.

The ham, however, was the star of the season. Of course, we used some on sandwiches and in omelettes. It also became the central ingredient for a batch of black beans and rice with ham. Because it was a bone-in ham, we created a soup of ham, white beans, potatoes, and leftover greens. Thanks to boiling the ham bone along with the rest of the ingredients, this hearty and healthy winter soup had an especially rich flavor.

White Bean Soup with Ham and Greens

Ingredients:
One onion, chopped
1 T olive oil
One ham bone
4 cups chicken stock
1 - 2 cups chopped ham
One can cannelini beans
1 cup chopped, cooked greens
1 pound red potatoes, washed and diced
3 carrots, peeled and chopped
1 large sprig fresh thyme

In a large stock pot, sautee the onion in the oil until transparent. Add the rest of the ingredients and simmer for at least an hour. Remove the ham bone, and serve. This soup is great reheated.

Risotto Risotto Risotto

Why Risotto

One of our favorite comfort foods is the venerable Italian rice-based staple risotto. More flexible even than American comfort favorite mac-n-cheese, risotto is a ready medium for delivering a wide array of flavors. While some typical favorites include tomato and fresh basil or salmon and lemon zest, risotto can absorb the flavors of almost any leftovers hanging around the pantry or refrigerator.

A few days after our Christmas extravaganza we were in serious need of a comfort meal. A little rummaging revealed a couple meyer lemons, romano cheese, frozen homemade chicken stock, and some leftover poached white asparagus. Since onions, garlic, and arborio rice are always on hand in our kitchen, an easy meyer lemon and white asparagus risotto was quickly in the works.

How To

A basic risotto begins with fives simple ingredients, each of which is crucial and should not be substituted: butter, arborio rice, quality stock, an onion, and dry white wine. Many risottos also incorporate garlic and some sort of hard, aged cheese, such as parmagiano or romano.

There are only two tricks to know about risotto: 1) the stock that's added to the dish as it cooks must be kept just below boiling temperature 2) the flavorful additions are typically cooked on their own before they're added to the risotto at the very end.

The exceptions to second trick are fresh herbs and seafood ingredients. Both will cook in just a few minutes when they are added at the end of the cooking process.

Risotto is cooked uncovered in a medium 10 to 12 inch frying pan. It should cook at a consistent low simmer, and as you stir, you should only add more liquid when it takes a little time for the rice/stock mixture to fill the bottom of the pan back in when you stir (see video at end of post).

Basic Steps

Heat 32 oz (4 cups) stock in a medium sauce pan to about 180 degrees (just below boiling) and keep it there
Melt 2T butter in the frying pan
Add a diced onion
Sautee the onion until it becomes transparent, add crushed garlic if you want and cook for a minute or two more
Add 1 cup arborio rice, sautee for about a minute
pour in 1/2 white wine, stir until most of the liquid is evaporated
Add one and a half ladels of hot stock
Stir, stir stir
When the bottom of the pan shows for a few seconds when you stir, add another ladle (see bideo below)
Continue until the stock is gone
Shortly after you add the last bit of stock, incorporate your other ingredients as well as whatever cheese you are adding.

Garnish with fresh grated cheese and serve immediately. The risotto should have a creamy consistency.

Risotto can become a nice first plate or a hearty main course, depending on what other ingredients or accompaniments it's paired with. Have fun experimenting!

Below is a brief video of the risotto being stirred:

White Chicken Chili

"Everyone makes Chicken Chili" is what people told us when we decided to try making a version of this fad from a few years ago. That's exactly why we were interested. That, and we wanted another recipe in our cookbook for left-over chicken. [guilty: sometimes we pick up a fully cooked rotisserie chicken from the local grocer]. This chicken chili turned out exactly as we had hoped-- a white chicken chili that could be proudly served in a restaurant (the type that serves white chicken chili, at least).

Making this chili is as rewarding as making biscuits and gravy from scratch. You feel somehow satisfied that you have taken a recognizable staple, understood its ingredients, assessed its economy, and appreciated its simple flavors. Don't knock it until you make it--white chicken chili justly deserves praise.

This particular recipe is thick and gelatinous -- in a good way -- due to the roux that forms the base.


Ingredients:

1 stick butter
1/4 c flour
2 cups milk
1 cup chicken broth (vary according to desired thickness)
2 teaspoons chili powder
1 1/2 tsp cumin (freshly ground if possible)
1 small can mild green chilis
1 1/2 lbs boneless chicken breast (or whatever you have leftover) cut into manageable pieces,
4 red potatoes, or other potatoes if you have them
2 cans white beans
1 large onion, or two smaller ones

In a skillet, brown the chicken. If you are using fresh breasts, coat in flour and chili powder and brown on both sides thoroughly before dicing. If you are using leftover pieces of chicken, be sure to discard any skin and fry the meat until slightly browned but not dried-out. Set aside.

In the same skillet add some oil if necessary and cook the onions until translucent. Turn off.

In large stock-pot, melt the stick of butter and stir in the flour. Cook the roux, stirring constantly, until it begins to thicken, about four minutes. Add the onion and continue to stir. Add the milk and continue to stir, letting the roux come back to temperature and thicken. Add probably 3/4 of the broth, depending on how thick you want the soup to be. Now add the spices, beans, green chilis, and potatoes. Finally, add the chicken, shredding pieces if they are too large.

Cook on low, stirring occasionally for a half hour or so. Add more broth if needed at any time.

Serve with sour cream, fresh chives, and a dash of hot sauce. Enjoy!

Note on hot sauces: A lot of white chicken chili recipes--and American recipes in general--call for Tobasco for heat. Tobasco is a very vinegary hot sauce, and we don't find it appropriate for chili. It is much better with a beans & rice dish or pork. So if you can, find a smokier Mexican hot sauce such as Valentina or Cholula.

Christmas Dinner 07: A Note On the Wines

A truly inspired meal needs equally inspired wines. For Christmas, we were lucky enough to have some incredible wines, flown-in avec guests straight from Napa Valley. [Note that in the case of the Quarterback and the Robert Sinskey, we drank two bottles.] An otherwise only decent Cote Du Rhone supplied some needed relief to the palate as we drank through the Quarterback and finished our second helpings.

Recapping the wine pairings for the Christmas 07 dinner:


First Course: Chilled Char-Broiled Lobster Tails & 2006 Abraxas "vin de terroir," a Robert Sinsky 34% pinot gris, 28% pinot blanc, 21% riesling, 17% gewurztraminer

Amouse-Bouche: Asparagus Mousse & 2005 Martellozo Prosecco

Entree: Baked Nueske's Ham & 2005 Quarterback McLaren Vale Red Wine, a 30% Shiraz, 27% Cabernet Suvignon, 22% Merlot and 21% Grenache blend by winemaker Tony De Lisio

Cheese Course (not on menu): Iberico three milk cheese with roasted chesnuts & 2005 Robert Sinskey Vinyards late harvest Pinot Gris

Dessert Course: [ CENSORED ]

Christmas Dinner 07: Main Course&Sides

We began planning the Christmas 2007 meal months in advance. In all that time we only had one constant: there would be ham. While brainstorming what would accompany this ham, we were forced to eventually restrain ourselves. More than once our menu was revised for being too heavy. We wanted multiple courses, and to survive them, we would need to be sensible.

Finally, a general--and traditional-- pattern emerged. We'd have something sweet, something green, and something starchy (and gooey). While there are all sorts of things one can serve with ham, we felt that failing to provide any of these three archetypes would mean disappointment.

Thus we decided on the classic pairing, red cabbage. But we'd add something sweeter in the form of cherries. We decided on yet another classic pairing, gratin. But we'd make it lighter with cauliflower instead of potatoes-- and we'd use Japanese breadcrumbs (panko) instead of the typical Italian. In addition, we'd serve wilted greens with balsamic dressing to further bring out the flavor of the pork. The menu finally evolved into this:


Baked Neuske's Ham under Molasses Crumb Topping
(with 14 year Clynelish Mustard)

Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage with Cherries

Panko-dusted Gruyere Cauliflower Gratin

Warm Wilted Greens with Balsamic Viniagrette



The Recipes

Baked Neuske's Ham under Molasses Crumb Topping (with 14 year Clynelish Mustard)

Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage with Cherries (adapted from an old family recipe)

Ingredients:
1/4 c dried cherries
3/4 c water
1 T brandy
1 red cabbage, shredded
2 T cooking oil
1 chopped onion
3 T white vinegar
1 apple, peeled and diced
1 T sugar
1 wineglass red wine
4 - 5 slices bacon

In a small saucepan, heat the water to boiling. Add brandy and cherries. Remove from heat and set aside while prepping other ingredients (or for at least ten minutes).

In a large stockpot, cook the onion until translucent. Add all the other ingredients and stir well. Lay bacon on top and simmer, covered, for at least an hour and a half. Remove the bacon occasionally to stir the mixure, and then set it back on top. Add more water if the mixture becomes too dry. Add salt and pepper to taste and discard bacon before serving.

Panko-dusted Gruyere Cauliflower Gratin

[from foodnetwork.com]

Ingredients:

1 1/2 c milk
1/4 small onion, studded with one clove
1 small bay leaf
1 small sprig fresh thyme
5 T unsalted butter, divided
3 1/2 T all-purpose flour
1 head cauliflower, trimmed and cut into 1 1/2 inch florets
1 generous cup finely grated Gruyere cheese (about 3 ounces)
1 t Cognac or brandy
Pinch of cayenne
4 gratings of fresh nutmeg
1 c panko (the original recipe called for regular breadcrumbs)
1 T minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

Preheat over to 400 F. Butter a 1 1/2 quart gratin dish and set it aside.

Make the sauce. In a medium sauce pan, heat the milk with the onion, bay leaf, and thyme to just below the boiling point. Set aside. In another medium pan, melt 2 T of the butter over medium heat, and then sift in the flour. Cook the mixture, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon in a figure-8 motion, until it lightens in color, about 2 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.

Gradually whisk the milk mixture into the flour mixture. Bring to a boil over medium high heat, whisking to prevent lumps. Reduce heat to low, and simmer, whisking occasionally, until the sauce is thickened, about 10 minutes.

While the sauce simmers, bring a medium pot of water to a boil, season with salt, and add the cauliflower. Cook ukntil tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Drain and pat dry. Arrange the cauliflower, florets-side up, in the buttered gratin dish.

Strain the sauce and season it with a teaspoon salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cayenne to taste. Whisk in the cheese, 1 T of the butter, and the brandy until smooth, taking care not to overmix. Pour the cheese sauce over the cauliflower.

Melt the remaining 2 T butter in a small saucepan. In a medium bowl, mix the panko with the buter to coat evenly. Sprinkle on top of the cauliflower. Bake until the top of the cauliflower gratin is golden brown and bubbly, about 25 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes. Serve hot.

Warm Wilted Greens with Balsamic Viniagrette [from mayoclinic.com]

*Note: We used a mix of turnip and mustard greens, which gave this dish a heavy, chewy consistency. If we make it again, we will use spinach instead. It's much softer and more enjoyable to eat alongside other dishes.

Ingredients:

1/4 t salt
2 pounds collard, mustard, or turnip greens, stemmed and cleaned
1 T olive oil
1/2 yellow onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 c broth
1 T balsamic vinegar
1/4 t freshly ground black pepper

Bring alarge saucepan 3/4 full of water to a boil. Add the salt and greens, stir until wilted, about 30 seconds. Drain and rinse immediately with cold water to stop the cooking. Squeeze the greens to remove excess water. Chop coarsely and set aside.

In a large frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until soft and lightly golden, about 6 minutes. Add the garlic and sauate for 1 minute; don't let the garlic brown. Add the chopped greens and the stock and saute, stirring occasionally, until the greens are tender and most of the stock has evaporated, about 5 minutes. Add the vinegar, stir well, and season with the pepper. Serve hot.

Christmas Dinner 07: The Amuse Bouche

Asparagus Mousse served on Chinese spoons




This was a far more involved recipe than we had anticipated--a full-fledged mousse! Luckily, we had prepared it a day in advance. Inspired by the asparagus mousse in Larousse Gastronomique, we decided to pare it down to a single serving and serve it as our amuse bouche.
Surprisingly, we found just such a recipe served on a spoon!

The asparagus mousse was paired with 2005 Martellozo Prosecco

Amuse Bouche Asparagus Mousse

[From finedinings.com by Peggy Bucholz]

Serves 12

Yield: 3/4 cup

1/4 pound asparagus, trimmed, peel if stalks are large
1 green onion, roughly chopped
1 tablespoon Best Foods or Hellman's Mayonnaise
1/2 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
pinch cayenne pepper
1/8 teaspoon Kosher salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1/4 an egg white
1/8 teaspoon salt
1 small tomato, for garnish
12 small arugula leaves, for garnish
12 Chinese spoons

Boil asparagus in water until tender; drain; puree with onion in a food processor or blender until smooth; transfer to a medium sized bowl and cool. Stir in mayonnaise, lemon juice, cayenne pepper and salt. In a small bowl whip cream to stiff peaks. In another small bowl whip egg white with salt to stiff peaks. Fold whipped cream and egg white into asparagus mousse mixture; taste for seasoning. This can be made ahead, covered and refrigerated.

Cut tomato skins into small diamonds as garnishes. Make 2 days before serving, cover and refrigerate.

Christmas Dinner 07: First Course

Chilled Char-broiled Lobster Tails in White Pepper Mimosa Vinaigrette served with Blood Orange and Greens



Although we could have purchased tails in town, we were concerned about their quality. Even live local lobsters can have lower quality flavor than flash frozen tails flown-in. So we decided to over-night frozen 4-5 oz. tails from Main Lobsters Direct (www.mainelobstersdirect.com). Needles to say the quality of the lobster was superb.

The lobster tails were paired with the 2005 Abraxas "vin de terroir."

Chilled Lobster with Mimosa Dressing

[Recipe from Diane Rattray, in a guide to Southern U.S. Cuisine. We edited the recipe for 6 and served guests each a half.]

INGREDIENTS:

• 3 frozen lobster tails, thawed
• 1 tablespoon melted butter
• salt and pepper
• greens, such as romaine lettuce, spring mix, etc.
• 4 radishes, sliced
• Mimosa Dressing:
• 1/4 cup honey
• 1/3 cup orange juice concentrate
• 2 tablespoons champagne vinegar or white wine vinegar
• Salt and pepper, to taste

PREPARATION:

Split each tail lengthwise and rinse with cold water. Place, meat side up, on a foil-lined baking pan. Lightly brush each tail with melted butter and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Broil about 4 inches from heat for about 4 to 6 minutes, or until tails curl.

Remove from the oven and let cool. Cover and chill for an hour or two.

Mimosa Dressing:
Combine honey, orange juice concentrate, and champagne vinegar in a medium saucepan. Simmer for 5 minutes, or until slightly reduced. Add salt and pepper to taste.

Arrange lobster tails on a plate with a few greens, sliced radish, or other salad vegetables. Drizzle a little of the Mimosa Dressing near the lobster.
Serves 6.

Christmas Dinner 07: The beginning

Although the picture does not do it justice, the Christmas dinner 2007 began with a duck heart and liver pate. It was paired with chilled 14 year Clynelish single malt scotch with a twist of grapefruit.

This pre-dinner appetizer was also the signal that it was time to put on our crowns.

Christmas Dinner 07: Tea Time

Like a lot of people, we saw our first Jasmine blossom in the movie Marie Antoinette. It is probably the most interesting thing that happened in the film. The blossoms can be found online at Adagio Teas (www.adagio.com) as well as at a number of other retailers. We used the tea as a diversion while we began preparing the meal. Unfurled, the blossoms don't look quite like the CG'd blossoms in the movie, but they are impressive nonetheless. For maximum viewing we served the tea in stemless wine glasses. This is a picture of the aftermath.

The Dining Table

A typical cheese and wine course at the Black Bear & Birdie Bistro table. [Click picture for larger view.]

This photo truly surprised us--because it bears so much resemblance to the style of cookbooks circa 1978. While food photography has thankfully moved on, for us at least, some aspects of atmosphere have not changed.

Hardware Hankering: Potjiekos

Sometimes we run into kitchen items that we simply have to have. Currently we are consumed by lust for the South African potjie pots (pronounced "poi-kei"). In addition to being eye-catching objects, they have a fascinating history and superior design. Set on three legs, these pots can hang or be placed directly in coals. Whatever the heat source, they are shaped in such a way as to maximize energy efficiency from that source. Versatile, survivalist cookware if there ever was any!

The Souffle

Mustering the Courage:

It had been some years since we decided to try our hand at making a souffle, but it is only recently that we actually made one. When the notion to attempt the souffle first appeared we lacked the proper ramekin; then we simply lacked the will.

Famous for their potential for disaster, souffles have gotten a bad rap from amateur chefs trying to impress their guests. But this isn't because souffles are difficult, it is because of their timing --if you wait too long to serve it after it comes out of the oven, a souffle will indeed collapse. Thus, the trick to a magnificent souffle--as even the famed Louis Diat (Ritz) admits--is simply that guests must wait for it, not the other way around.

Of course in his day, the Ritz-Carleton started a second souffle right after the first. If a table lingered a little too long over a course, the backup would be hurried out to the table without panic. In our case, we started making our souffle when already hungry and waiting.

The Point of Attack:

Years ago we had happened on an issue of Waitrose that detailed the making of the Souffle in spell-binding detail. A two page spread filled with step by step instructions including pictures, the article made us feel confident we were taking on the task with an excellent resource. However, even armed with a good guide, you would be wise to open every single cookbook you have in the house that has a souffle section and pour over its contents greedily.

Every cookbook will vary in proportion and opinion, but the chemistry of the souffle will be revealed by what they all have in common: measure precisely, be sure to use CLEAN implements (imperfections affect the outcome) and, above all, BE GENTLE folding in the exquisite crackling foam of the egg whites.

With any luck, your first souffle will be a success!






[This post will be updated]

Stone Crab Claws

The Beginning of the Affair:

We started this Christmas season with a champagne & stone crab brunch. Stone crab claws are a little on the pricey side this far North, but the meat is so incredibly delicious that they are a worthy treat. Also, because we always try to be mindful of the environmental impact of the seafood we buy, it is noteworthy that the claws of the stone crab are a renewable resource: fishermen cull the claws and toss the rest of the crab back(they regrow in 12 to 18 months).

Stone crab season in Florida runs from Oct 15th to April 15th, but we can only get them in the store during the first three weeks of December.

Hammer Der Götter (hammer of the gods):

While setting the table, we lightly steamed the claws and prepared drawn butter. Once seated, we used a heavy stone mortar and pestle to crack the claws--an improvisation that turned out to be superior to the originally intended crackers (lost in our recent move). We draped a clean kitchen cloth loosely over the whole pestle-- with one claw in it at a time-- and gave the pincher a good decisive knock. True to their name, stone crabs have an extraordinarily thick shell. Glassy and jewel-like, they yield the sweetest, tenderest, crab meat imaginable. Stone crab season is now duly noted in our calendar.

Along with the champagne we had fresh raspberries and kiwi with homemade whipped cream. A light and colorful accompaniment, it also added a little sour.

Digestive:

Since our fishmonger told us that most fishermen only clip one claw from each crab and our cookbook indicated that two can be taken, we decided to do a little research. It turns out that while taking two claws is legal, responsible fishermen harvest only one claw per crab. Because the crab will regrow a claw faster if it still has one, not harvesting both more quickly replenishes the supply. Read: we sure hope the renewable hype is true.

Roast Duck with Guava-Chipotle Glaze & Jerk Duck Wraps

Recently we've been inspired by the cookbook Miami Spice (1993) by Steven Raichlen. He has a recipe for tamarind-glazed duck that we decided to vary using guava paste. In addition to the glaze, the recipe called for puree of ginger and orange juice to be worked under the duck's skin.

Stevezie's directions were: "Loosen the skins on the duck. To do so, start at the neck . . . and tunnel your fingers under the skin." This is precisely the sort of direct instruction that we love about Miami Spice; however, in this instance 'tunnel' is a euphemism for 'do what you can to get this #$^&* in there.' If you have ever 'tunneled' under duck skin before, you know what we mean. We're glad no one was watching.

Once again defying instruction, we baked the bird until it reached 165 degrees in the deepest part of the breast. In this case, that translated into 45 minutes at 300 degrees followed by 45 minutes at 350 degrees--and then finally a brief turn up at the end to crisp the skin. Gorgeous!

We served the duck with sesame broccoli and brown rice.

Jerk Duck

After our meal, we decided to transform the remainder of the bird into Jerk Duck Wraps for our lunches. We marinated the left-over pieces of meat in jerk seasoning and pan-fried it. Then we used it as the base for some disgustingly good wraps. Spicy and oh-so-tender, jerk duck makes an elegant change from pork, chicken, or beef.

The 'Green Elf' Cocktail

Congratulations to the Green Elf, the cocktail of the 2007 holiday season:

1 oz cherry kirsch

1 pour orange juice

remainder soda

Note: Do not use expensive liquor for this drink! Never use orange concentrate, but good kirsch is wasted on this cocktail.