The Souffle

Mustering the Courage:

It had been some years since we decided to try our hand at making a souffle, but it is only recently that we actually made one. When the notion to attempt the souffle first appeared we lacked the proper ramekin; then we simply lacked the will.

Famous for their potential for disaster, souffles have gotten a bad rap from amateur chefs trying to impress their guests. But this isn't because souffles are difficult, it is because of their timing --if you wait too long to serve it after it comes out of the oven, a souffle will indeed collapse. Thus, the trick to a magnificent souffle--as even the famed Louis Diat (Ritz) admits--is simply that guests must wait for it, not the other way around.

Of course in his day, the Ritz-Carleton started a second souffle right after the first. If a table lingered a little too long over a course, the backup would be hurried out to the table without panic. In our case, we started making our souffle when already hungry and waiting.

The Point of Attack:

Years ago we had happened on an issue of Waitrose that detailed the making of the Souffle in spell-binding detail. A two page spread filled with step by step instructions including pictures, the article made us feel confident we were taking on the task with an excellent resource. However, even armed with a good guide, you would be wise to open every single cookbook you have in the house that has a souffle section and pour over its contents greedily.

Every cookbook will vary in proportion and opinion, but the chemistry of the souffle will be revealed by what they all have in common: measure precisely, be sure to use CLEAN implements (imperfections affect the outcome) and, above all, BE GENTLE folding in the exquisite crackling foam of the egg whites.

With any luck, your first souffle will be a success!






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